FAQ

The diagnostic code (P1336) is to tell you that the OBD has disabled the Misfire monitor, due to the crankshaft variation not being learned. This can happen if the PCM (computer) has been recently re-flashed for engine conversion, or where the engine & PCM were not from the same vehicle.

This re-learn procedure can be done by any GM Holden dealer via their Tech II programmer. For engine conversions the dealer may require donor vehicle original V.I.N. (Vehicle Identification Number) for dealer to gain access. This only applies to Holden Vehicles Manufactured in Australia.

This diagnostic code will disable the misfire monitor, and not warn the driver that the engine has entered a dangerous misfire event, which can cause catalyst damage & higher than usual emission readings.

This code should not effect the overall vehicle operation, and should not disable engine in any way.

It is advisable to scan the system with Tech 2 or a good quality scan tool. Record all faults and advise us either by email, fax or phone. System can be manually scanned as per workshop manual procedure.

Most ECU's all mount either on the LH kick panel or above the Glove box. GEN IV LS-3 engine ECU mount on drivers side front inner guard behind headlight.

Is it wired correctly Red = Ignition, Black = earth, White = signal input.
2) If connecting direct from PCM (Computer) speedo signal you need to use a 4.7k ohm pull up resistor.
3) Read instructions supplied in box and set the trim switches accordingly.

Vehicle in limp home mode. Scan vehicle for fault codes.

Check all plugs for pins that may have become dislodged.

Place a test light on solenoid wire and check to see if there is power. If vehicle was previously an Auto check park neutral switch has been bridged.

Ignition by-pass wired wrong. Follow instructions provided.

If on Holden 12volt with ballast resistor. The Ballast has not been by-passed. Follow instructions.

Has VAT's (Vehicle Anti Theft) been programmed out of ECU (Computer). CAE Performance Products provide this service.

Check all wiring speed sensor and tacho signal
2) Depending on Speedo brand it may need 4.7k ohm pull-up resistor.

Reprogram TAC - check and see if pedal assembly matches application.

Check for positive switching at A/C switch. Bridge pressure switch.

Check for correct wiring down in kick panel. Positive is Pink wire, which is on with ignition.

Check with ECU(Computer) scan tool: If low voltage code for trans. is logged. Check 12volt supply at trans plug (pink/blue wire)

You will need Temp-Sender adaptor kits from us and a T-piece for Oil Sender. Then simply screw into where factory oil sender is fitted at rear of engine. Temp Sender is to be fitted into Hex key bung at rear of driver's side cylinder head.

Original Senders from original engine will be required to be fitted for the Gauges to work correctly.

If using the LS-3/GEN-4 VE Commodore engine you need to have the sump changed to Pre-VE to suit all early Commodore conversions. All earlier engines LS-1 and LS-2 use VT-VZ standard sump.

You will need to remove the old tank and determine where there is room to fit the pump. Make sure that the pump pick-up will sit on the bottom of the tank, if not full capacity will not be utilised. If possible retain the original fuel sender and make sure new assembly does not interfere with it.

CAE can supply either Mild Steel, Aluminium or Stainless Steel weld rings. You will have to position the weld ring and then cut the hole using a hols saw. Next you prepare the tank for welding.

CAUTION: welding fuel tank is dangerous if you don't have any experience don't do it)

If you don't have the expertise to do this job CAE can do these modifications for you just call us on 03 5472 1442.

More information about our Fuel Systems here.

10" Curved Screen Blades. These are P/N TE103-10 and match up to the adjustable Arms P/N TC203. When fitting the spoon arm end into the Blade Holder, it is very tight to feed into the Blade Holder. To assist fitment it is advisable to slightly taper the very end of the spoon by touching the end on a grinding wheel on both sides and the bottom edge of the spoon, this should help you to slide the spoon into the blade holder with a fair amount of push required to get it in and located fully home in its holder. Details in the Arm package shows the lengths to be cut and locking it into the spring loaded Arm housing..

These are P/N TE101-12 Blades and match up to P/N TC204 Arm which include the small blade attachment hook. These Blades are designed to be cut at both ends to the height required on your windscreen. These are best cut with a good pair of 6” Side cutters. Details of where to cut the Arms are written in the packaging instructions. To assist in holding the small clip, it is advisable to crimp the clip on to the arm where the dimple in the arm protrudes through the clip.

These are P/N 3021180 Blades and match up to P/N A101 or TC201 Arm. In the Blades packaging, you will find a small black plastic fitting that clicks on to the blade and is held in place by the small steel axle pin. The flat Arm, P/N A101/TC201 gets cut to the correct length and the angled end with the dimple, slides into the plastic clip all the way until the dimple clicks into the locating hole in the plastic clip.

The easiest way is to do this, is to hold the Blade in the vertical position on the windscreen where you want it to sweep. Tape this to the Arm assemble in this position so you can visibly see where on the underside of the Arm you need to make the cut. Make sure there is enough length to be able to secure it with the small grub screw provided on the arm assembly. Once the cut is made remove the tape and slide the flat section of arm into its holder and fasten with the grub screw provided.

CAE Performance Products Wipers are supplied with either 100 or 120 degree of sweep angles. We do have a range of gearwheels in 10 degree increments available that we can exchange for you. When measuring the angle it is necessary to quote an angle 10 degree less than you actually require as this allows for the 5 degree “flop” at the end of each directional travel. In 90 % of applications the 100 degree and the 120 degree gearwheels give the correct sweep.

If the Blades are parking too far up the screen and wiping too far off the screen, then it is a simple matter of stoping the wiper motor in the par position. Then remove the arms off the splined Knurls (Drive post) and moving them around the knurl to the correct position and pressing them back into place on the drive post knurls.

When the Wiper Blades are working correctly but the park with the blades in the vertical stop position. The gearwheel inside the wiper motor needs to be removed and the steel Pin Drive Plate must be rotated 180 degrees on the nylon gear. CAE can do this for you if necessary.

When the Wiper blades are parking with one Blade vertically stopped and the other blade has stopped in the correct horizontal position, then one of the wheel boxes and its drive cable requires rotating 180 degrees compared to its mate. The wheel boxes must have the spiral drive cable and tubing running underneath the wheel box on one side wheelbox and over the top of the wheelbox on the other side. This means there will be a slight s shape in the Middle connecting tube so the cable drive can run under and the over on the wheel boxes.

When the Wiper blades are not parking correctly, undo the drive nut on the Wiper Motor shaft that holds the Wiper Crank Z bracket and gently tap the crank loose from its spline, rotate it by hand until the wiper blades have dropped down to where you want them to park. Press the crank back on to its shaft spline and tighten the shaft nut. Re test and adjust the blades on the outside posts and allow for a wet screen and an “end flop” factor.

CAE supplied Rotary Wiper Switch is designed to suit the internal earthing circuit for the self park position on all Wiper motors. Our Wiper motors can also be connected to stalk type positive switching switches with modifications that must be carried out by us to avoid losing the 12 months Warranty. All CAE Wiper Kits are supplied with the interconnecting Loom and Fuse between Wiper Motor and Rotary type Switch.

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The Universal Mounting bracket for Cable Drive Wiper Kits, has been developed to suit most home built cars or restorations. It is impossible for us to develop a mounting bracket that would suit every make and model vehicle, but a universal mount is supplied in the kit to give you a starting point for mounting the Wiper Motor. It can be cut, redrilled or lengthened to suit your application. Some applications may require another strip to lengthen the clamp mounting and some times a box section of steel is required for the mounting bracket to sit on. Drill it; bend it to suit your own application.

We have had requests for longer Wheel boxes/Posts which we are unable to obtain. The Aluminium posts (Wheel boxes) are the same length as the original post but on some Chev cowls and the inner panels, have varied in production. It may be necessary to panel beat the inner panel slightly so a flatter surface is obtained. This will allow the wheel boxes too seat correctly and give the correct length protruding on the outside sufficiently to get the original Chrome nut to fit and tighten on to the Windscreen retaining bezel. Be careful when tightening the Chrome nut as it is easy to strip the aluminium threaded wheel box post.

The manufacture will not accept warranty on cables longer than 2.2 mtrs. This is due to the limit of effort by the motor to push the spiral cable through the 5/16" bundy tubing. Cables 900mm, 1200mm, and 2.2mtrs are available from CAE Performance Products. Any excess cable length can be cut off using a 4" Grinder with a narrow cut off disk. The Bundy Tubing end piece should be long enough to completely enclose the spiral drive cable when it is operating back and forth.

Since the Hi-Torque starter has it's own solenoid fitted you need to make a couple of changes.

1.. Move the large primary cable from the switched side of the solenoid to the 'always hot or live' side of the solenoid. In other words, the large cable running from the solenoid on the support panel to the starter should be placed on the same pole of the solenoid as the large cable running to the battery. You should have enough bolt thread showing to achieve this. Or get a new cable to connect the starter to the positive lead on battery. You must leave the cable from the battery to remote solenoid, 2-cables doesn't look as neat.

2.. Make up a lighter gauge (say 4mm) wire to run from the switched side of the solenoid (where you just moved the large cable from!) down to the small terminal pole on the starter. Use a ring terminal at the solenoid end of the wire and spade terminal at the starter end of the wire. MAKE SURE THAT THE TERMINAL ON THE STARTER END DOES NOT CONTACT THE PRIMARY CABLE OR TERMINAL. FAILURE TO DO SO WILL RESULT IN STARTER 'RUN ON' AND WILL RUIN BOTH THE STARTER AND THE FLYWHEEL/FLEXPLATE.

3.. Secure the new small wire to the primary cable with zip-ties, tape, or wire sheathing to protect it from moving parts, heat and foreign object damage.
Click for Diagram

Pinion & Ring gear clearance (Outer Mesh)

Correct pinion & ring gear clearance is needed before starting the engine. If this is not correct, damage will occur. With the starter motor disengaged and mounted correctly, the pinion to ring gear clearance (Outer mesh) should be 2 to 2.5mm See figure 1

Before fitting the Starter measured from the Contact Edge of Drive Plates Ring Gear to the Front Edge of the Starter Pinion in stationary Position. See Fig. 1

To Calculate the Outer Mesh measure the distance from the Starter mounting face to the front side of the ring gear. A Then measure the Starter mounting face to the end of the pinion. B The difference between measurement A and B is the Pinion Ring Gear clearance C

A.................... - B.................... = C

If this is less than 2mm then the shim spacers will be needed. Shims are available on request.